Testing this out (sorry in advance for my poor grammar) anyway let's share a surf photo I took and some words about why I love the ocean...
I hope this image makes you feel refreshed! I loved taking this from a long way away up on a grassy hill with horses and sheep nearby...
This is how I will try to describe the experience of catching a wave... I wrote this on the app X here: https://twitter.com/jonamccallum
Question: Since I am new here... How do I add a image as an embedded link? Also this column below this won't delete... yes I know it is just me yet I can't seem to find how to edit/ delete it as it does not show the 6 dots thing! =)
(Won't use an emoji as you probably already know right! See Below)
Everything slowed as I plummeted down the vertical wave. It felt like minutes. The wave crested above me as I leaned into a turn on my salmon pink two fin surfboard. The music of water gave voice to the rush of joy in my singing heart. Today was a good wave day.
Maybe you are a bodyboarder ( I also like this and for those who have boogie boarded it is the same type of thing yet bodyboarders are a bit cautious of calling it that...)
Anyway I love shorebreak surfing, catapulting with the backwash like a dance in the shallows, I live the sound of the crash, I feel carried by that current, I turn, then launch, and that moment when you fall into hollow sandy silent liquid green room.
Lot's of sand in the hair!
Yet it is all til the ocean-thirst relented. We can live dolphin like days relentless in our pursuit of enjoying this liquid miracle of life..
Surfing shore-breaking waves in the salty streams of afternoon apricot light is my favourite sport.
The rush of power toward shore, playing in a mixture of blue & yellow sea sandy mix. Paddle out for dozens more & then rinse off. Thank you you for reading and seeing a window into my mind and life...
Please say hello and tell me what you like to do for fun!
...By the way emojis here are HUGE!
